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Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair

by Catherine Cartwright-Jones, PhD

The NEW "Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair" book explores the art, science, techniques, and history of using henna, indigo, and cassia to dye hair. This book is a timely update of the previous book, "Henna for Hair" by Catherine Cartwright-Jones, to address the problem of the epidemic of para-phenylenediamine sensitization: the increasingly dangerous and widespread allergy to chemical hair dye. Separate chapter headings are listed below for your download convenience. Click on each chapter heading cover below to download each PDF file.

We offer this book free of charge. You may download selected chapters or the entire book. We ask only that you respect our copyright and observe our terms of use. Please see the copyright and licensing information at the bottom of this page.

Ancient Sunrise® Chapter 1
Henna for Hair

Introduction and the Epidemic of Para-phenylenediamine Sensitization

This chapter discusses the risks of using chemical hair dye, and the epidemiology of millions of cases of hair dye allergy. This chapter introduces the solution for allergies to chemical hair dye and associated chemical sensitivities.

Ancient Sunrise® Chapter 2
The History of Henna Hair Dye

This chapter is being revised and edited and will be available soon.
Ancient Sunrise® Chapter 3
Compound Henna

This chapter is being revised and edited and will be available soon.
Ancient Sunrise® Chapter 4
Henna Science and Microscopy

This chapter is being revised and edited and will be available soon.
Ancient Sunrise® Chapter 5
Plants that Dye Hair

This chapter discusses henna, indigo, and cassia, ( lawsonia inermis , indigofera tinctoria , and cassia obovata ) and the chemistry of each of these dye plants. Understanding the botany of these plants will help you understand how to get the best results from your henna hair dye.

Ancient Sunrise® Chapter 6
Henna and Acidic Mixes

This chapter discusses the necessary chemistry of mixing henna and cassia with a mildly acidic liquid. This chapter discusses several sources of fruit acids, and how each has a different effect on henna.

Ancient Sunrise® Chapter 7
Mixing and Testing your Henna Mix

This chapter discusses the mixing, dye release, formulation, and testing of a wide range of non-chemical permanent colors from henna, indigo, and cassia. This chapter includes step-by-step instructions to produce the color you want for your hair.
Ancient Sunrise® Chapter 8
How to Henna Your Hair

This chapter has step-by-step instructions for first time users dyeing hair blonde, red, brunette or black with henna indigo, and cassia.
Ancient Sunrise® Chapter 9
Gray Hair and 'Doing Your Roots'

This chapter has step-by-step instructions for maintaining your gray roots as they grow in; dyeing them red, brunette, or black.

Ancient Sunrise® Chapter 10
Lightening your Hennaed Hair

This chapter discusses the application of henna over chemically lightened hair, and chemically lightening hennaed hair and demonstrates the technique of highlights with henna and foils.
Ancient Sunrise® Chapter 11
Henna for Relaxed and Natural Hair

This chapter contains step-by-step instructions for using henna, cassia, and indigo to dye relaxed hair, natural hair, and locs.
Ancient Sunrise® Chapter 12

This chapter provides answers to the most frequent questions from people who henna their hair; these include problems with hard water, slight adjustments in color, getting complete and permanent color, and the occasional surprise.
Ancient Sunrise® Chapter 13
Henna and Your Health

This chapter discusses the safety and wellness aspects of dyeing your hair with henna: why it is recommended for pregnant and nursing women, how it can enhance your wellness, and who should not dye their hair with henna.
Ancient Sunrise® Chapter 14
Stylists and Salons

This chapter is directed to stylists who wish to incorporate henna into their salons because they need to serve clients who have become sensitized to chemical hair dye, or they, themselves, have become sensitized to chemicals.
Ancient Sunrise® Chapter 15
Additional Techniques for Henna

This chapter discusses henna manicures and pedicures, as well as amla facials for salon practice, and provides step-by-step instructions.

Creative Commons License
"Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair" by Catherine Cartwright-Jones PhD is licensed under a
Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License .

You may share information in this book online as long as you cite source and post a link to this URL.
You may not use this information on any commercial website or in any commercial publication.

Citation format: Catherine Cartwright-Jones PhD. 2015. "Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair" TapDancing Lizard LLC. Accessible also via,, and